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FYSETC 3D Printer Accessories - Spriite Extruder Hotend Upgrade Parts - Bimetal Heatbreak: Copper+ Titanium Alloy Throat Tube Fit Crealiity Ender 3 S1 Pro CR10 Smart Sermon V1 Original Heat Break

KWD 5

Brand
FYSETC
Weight
50 g
1 +

Special Features

  • A very necessary spare upgrade for the regular Spriite extruder: Dual metal Heatbreak - solid mechanical components, being made of bimetal, the immediate benefits of smoother flowing ABS and faster heatup times when paired with the copper heater block.
  • Package include: 2Pcs Copper+ Titanium Alloy heatbreak - High Temperature version upgrade: can up to 300℃/ 572℉, fit for ABS PETG ASA 1.75mm filament. If you need sprite heat block thermistor heater cartridge 3010 4010 fan cooling or silicone sock breakout adapter board, please enter our shop.
  • Installation was super easy, but one must pay attention to the depth of the threads going to the heater block, and when the nozzle is tightened down, or you will appear to have a loose fit, filament leakage: Sort out the thread spacing first before doing any tightening down of the two screws that hold the heating block to the main body. Or prepare some high heat thread tape and applied just enough to wrap around the threads twice.
  • 3D Printing material is nice flowing: Hold off on the electrical connections as well, as fitting it takes a few tries. Also make sure the nozzle isn't sitting too high, which may result in the fan shroud dragging on the print.
  • Upgrade for older heatbreaks with PTFE tube's : beats the stock aluminum heat break, this is well built and having the bi-metal design help with heat control, can improve your printer performance.

Description

Feature:
1. Improved heat transfer: Must have heatbreak for
Ender-3 S1
Ender-3 S1 Pro
Ender-3 S1 Plus
CR-10 Smart Pro
Sermoon V1
Sermoon V1 Pro !
Direct fit for your original spriite extruder and has performed quite well for printing with Nylon (even use a microswiissss M2steel Nozzle) and as well as tpu, petg, and both regular and silk pla!

2. But not fit E3 style: B1 SE Plus, Neptune3 Plus or Voxlabb printer.

3. Closest working replacement for Spider V2: depends on your need,
You could print out a spacer (maxed dimensional accuracy) to close the gap between the tubing inlet and transplanted heatbreak with a narrowing bevel down to 3mm diameter (almost no heat makes it that far up anyway). If you have a Sprite Extruder/Hot end combo (reallly should differentiate since there's the Sprite SE extruder alone now) this should be a perfect drop in. Install tips:
(1) To start, just heat up and remove any filament that is loaded (you can raise the z axis before or after this step also can have it about mid way up or you can completely pull the hotend assembly if you really prefer).
(2) While it is still hot, remove your nozzle from the heat block (make sure to not let your heatblock turn during this) - Then let your hotend cool - If you're not installing a nozzle, you can skip to this step - from the rear of the extruder, at the bottom of the hotend , you'll see a small set screw - unhook your heating and thermistor connectors and then remove the set screw, the heater block assembly will come down and out - remove your stock heartbreak, check that everything is clean and install the new one into the top - screw in the heatbreak as far as it will go into the top of the heat block, make sure it's nice and tight, but do NOT over tighten!
(3) Replace the assembly into the hotend and insert your set screw - plug in your connections and heat it up! (some personally heat it up and make sure the heatbreak is n

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